And here's the result after painting and weathering the lifeboats..a Billing Boats "Model BB478" Build log. An "Left click" on an image will show them in a higher resolution. When followed by a right click and "save picture as" or "open in a new tab" will give you the max possible resolution of 1600x1200 pixels
Saturday, 26 November 2011
Life Boats
Also the lifeboats supplied by the kit, is a bit too simple compared to the real thing, so also here I added more detail.
Again I used the nails and copper wire to simulate the knobs and ropes on the side of the boat, and I added stabilizer bars and a rain cover.
The rain cover is cut out of a (black) "report cover".
Again I used the nails and copper wire to simulate the knobs and ropes on the side of the boat, and I added stabilizer bars and a rain cover.
The rain cover is cut out of a (black) "report cover".
Monday, 31 October 2011
Lower decks
I continued with the fine details on the lower decks and besides the cranes and the life boats I’m just about finished on these decks.
I'm not sure how to bend the railing in shape in one piece without losing the "straight lines" and the sharp edges, so I cheated by "cutting" them in the 90 degree corners and soldier them together afterwards
I'm not sure how to bend the railing in shape in one piece without losing the "straight lines" and the sharp edges, so I cheated by "cutting" them in the 90 degree corners and soldier them together afterwards
Sunday, 23 October 2011
"rusty look"
After the "shiny" look, here's the "rusty" look.
I might have overdone it a bit, but after having looked at it for a while it actually starts to appeal to me..Sunday, 9 October 2011
In theory she’s ready to sail now..
At this stage the rudders and the engines, propellers and shafts are in place.
I added some visual details on the rudders and the only thing left on the hull is to get rid of the "shiny surface"..
I added some visual details on the rudders and the only thing left on the hull is to get rid of the "shiny surface"..
Saturday, 1 October 2011
Bow with details
I continued with some fine detailing on the upper deck and finished it, only thing remaining is the mast and crane.
I'm really satisfied with the result so far..
I'm really satisfied with the result so far..
Tuesday, 27 September 2011
Lower deck complete
I completed the lower deck and finished it with an more "used and natural" look.
For achieving this look I painted the parts in their normal base color, for example "mat black" (Humbrol No.33).
After this layer I "drybrush" it (not to heavily) with "dark Grey" (Humbrol no.32) to achieve a more dirty look, on top of this I "drybrush" "rust" (Humbrol no.113)
Sometimes as the final touch and to achieve a metallic look I “drybrush” it with "aluminum" (Humbrol no.56) on strategic places.
For achieving this look I painted the parts in their normal base color, for example "mat black" (Humbrol No.33).
After this layer I "drybrush" it (not to heavily) with "dark Grey" (Humbrol no.32) to achieve a more dirty look, on top of this I "drybrush" "rust" (Humbrol no.113)
Sometimes as the final touch and to achieve a metallic look I “drybrush” it with "aluminum" (Humbrol no.56) on strategic places.
Friday, 23 September 2011
Life Boat
My version of the life boat, I added a few more details.
The rope on the sides is copper wire (as this stays in the shape you bend it), and the "knobs" are shortened nails which were included in the kit.
As you might have notiched, I also added some more details to the middle deck..
The rope on the sides is copper wire (as this stays in the shape you bend it), and the "knobs" are shortened nails which were included in the kit.
As you might have notiched, I also added some more details to the middle deck..
Equipped Lower deck preview
I spend some time on the lower deck details and try to give it an worn out / used rusty look by using a technique (found on the internet) called "drybrushing", I spend some money on dedicated “drybrushes” and I’m very positive about the results.
It is an simple and efficient technique and creates the look I was looking for, the only worry now is not to overdo it..
Thursday, 22 September 2011
Colorful and shiny
Here she is with all her colors except the white stripes..
The colors I used are humbrol enamel paint no.48 "Mediterranean Blue" and No. 69 "Yellow" together with No. 21 "Black" and No. 19 "Bright Red"
The colors I used are humbrol enamel paint no.48 "Mediterranean Blue" and No. 69 "Yellow" together with No. 21 "Black" and No. 19 "Bright Red"
Black..
At this stage the shiny black is airbrushed in place..
I find it very easy to cover the parts with aluminum foil, it's very easy to shape and always stays in the shape you want it.
…I haven’t found the perfect tape yet, I’m open for any suggestion…
I find it very easy to cover the parts with aluminum foil, it's very easy to shape and always stays in the shape you want it.
…I haven’t found the perfect tape yet, I’m open for any suggestion…
The Ferrari look
Finally !! I can paint the hull..
I started with painting it with 5 layers of the same acrylic polyurethane based lacquer as I did on the inside, after this i primed the hull for finding any imperfect spots on it, and sanded/filled and primed several times until I was satisfied with the result..
At this stage I already airbrushed the "Ferrari red" humbrol color no.19 underwater line on the hull..
I started with painting it with 5 layers of the same acrylic polyurethane based lacquer as I did on the inside, after this i primed the hull for finding any imperfect spots on it, and sanded/filled and primed several times until I was satisfied with the result..
At this stage I already airbrushed the "Ferrari red" humbrol color no.19 underwater line on the hull..
Wednesday, 21 September 2011
Middle deck preview
Not really finished yet, but you can already get a feeling how it will look.
Note: I also added more detail to the "boxes" on deck, not exactly as they are shaped originally but that's more because of the limitations of wood, lack of other materials and my skills and creativity in general..
Tuesday, 20 September 2011
Upper structure
I'm really getting the feeling for "small" details now, therefore I also made the louver windows on the upper structure a bit more realistic..
Also on the upper structure I will prepare several cabin windows with backlights, switchable in 2 different groups.
Also on the upper structure I will prepare several cabin windows with backlights, switchable in 2 different groups.
Rudder shape
Neither the instructions or drawing show anything about the shape of the rudder.
As the original, I shaped the rudder with an sharp edge.
For fixing the rudder to the shaft I used an wire going through the rudder and soldiered it on both ends of the "brass holder", which again is soldiered to the shaft itself..
As the original, I shaped the rudder with an sharp edge.
For fixing the rudder to the shaft I used an wire going through the rudder and soldiered it on both ends of the "brass holder", which again is soldiered to the shaft itself..
Monday, 19 September 2011
Keel extention
Again after studying pictures of the Smit Rotterdam, the keel shape towards the stern has an sharp edge, the model originally hasn't, so I added it by using an extra piece of balsa wood.
At this stage I also added the side and stabilizers strips on the Hull and started to position the propeller guards
At this stage I also added the side and stabilizers strips on the Hull and started to position the propeller guards
The "Engine room"
As for the motors i choose the Robbe "Power 755/40", an powerfull motor for a good price..
As the max. rotation speed at 12 V seems to be app. 5600/min it is possible to drive the shafts without any gear in between, I used the heavy-duty coupling from Robbe "no. 1446" and I expect quite some power..
As the max. rotation speed at 12 V seems to be app. 5600/min it is possible to drive the shafts without any gear in between, I used the heavy-duty coupling from Robbe "no. 1446" and I expect quite some power..
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